In Rainy Washington, We Like Our Rosés Dry
Wine Adviser/Paul Gregutt The Seattle Times
Blink and you'll miss them. The spring release of Northwest rosé wines has become a much- anticipated event; I'd wager that nowhere else in the country are the new, local rosés so eagerly awaited and given such attention by sommeliers and consumers.
I am putting the focus on dry rosé, which was almost unknown in this country a few years ago, when sweet pink wines (white zinfandel and the like) were the fashion. Times have changed, and now we like our rosés dry, at least here in Washington. Winemakers are no fools. They can sell these wines barely six months after harvest — that's what we call Chateau cash-flow! They have embraced the dry style with a dazzling variety of offerings.
There are no regulations governing the production and labeling of rosé other than the usual — if they are to carry a varietal designation (grape name) they must be at least 75 percent of the named varietal.
In fact, most local rosés are 100 percent varietal from a single grape (there are exceptions, of course), because they are often made simply by bleeding off juice from a fermenter before it spends more than a day or so on the skins. This concentrates the remaining wine, destined to be a bold, brawny red in most instances, and gives the rosé its characteristic pretty pink or salmon or cherry candy color.
So rosé can be anything — pinot noir, sangiovese, syrah, cab franc, grenache, lemberger, merlot — you name it. Rarely do these wines show any particular varietal character. What you should be most curious about is the vintage (stick with the brand-new 2005s) and the level of sweetness.
Rosés from the new world are meant to be enjoyed when very young; even an extra year will rob them of freshness. And 2005 was an especially fine vintage in Washington. These being the first red-grape wines to be released, they offer the chance to do a quick assessment on the brawnier wines to come.
It's important that you taste before you buy whenever possible because rosés come in an unpredictable array of styles. Many shops do free tastings, and many restaurants offer rosé by the glass. You want to discover how sweet the wine tastes, an important question if you are trying to match it with food.
Syncline 2005 Rosé ($14) I have been an avid fan of Syncline's rosés in every single vintage, but this new release is the best yet. A blend of four varietals — grenache, cinsault, mourvèdre and syrah — it has more detail and complexity than its peers. It's a sophisticated wine with a distinct beginning, middle and finish. Scents of rosewater, layers of fruits and dabs of herbs and spices all contribute to this smartly executed and compelling effort.
Paul Gregutt is the author of "Northwest Wines."
His column appears weekly in the Wine section.
He can be reached by e-mail at wine@seattletimes.com.