Syncline
Wine Adviser/Paul Gregutt The Seattle Times
Syncline’s James Mantone is showing me some vineyard sites in this photo, taken about a year ago, in Washington’s Columbia Gorge AVA. Mantone and his wife Poppie began making wine in the area in 1999. During their first ten vintages, Syncline has rapidly become one of the most essential boutique wineries in this state.
With a determined focus on Rhone varietals (and occasional ventures into equally interesting, non-Rhone varietals), the Mantones have consistently produced well-structured, detailed and highly aromatic wines, priced affordably and crafted for both near-term enjoyment and cellaring. Their business approach, James explains, “has always been based on the European model – small, family-owned, with a little estate vineyard [theirs is biodynamic] – what one or two people could do. You make the best wines you can,” he modestly explains, “upgrade equipment when you can, pay as you go. If we had sunk millions into a winery building and were asking consumers to pay for the wine and the building I’d be a little more nervous. There are always new toys every winemaker would love to have, but I see some of these new offerings and I wonder if I’m paying for their wine or their winery.”
The first of Syncline’s spring releases are in the stores this week, and some will sell out very quickly. All of these wines are highly recommended.
Syncline 2008 Underwood Mountain Vineyard Grüner Veltliner ($20) – The first Gru-V for Syncline, and just the second harvest from this Columbia Gorge vineyard. Barely 12% alcohol, this is searingly tart, with sharp lime, pineapple and green apple fruit. Just a hint of white pepper in the nose. Could be a fine oyster wine.
Syncline 2008 Syncline Rosé ($16) – The blend is 44% Cinsault 30% Grenache, 17% Mourvedre and 9% Counoise. As in past vintages, it’s done with the saignée process, and fermented in stainless steel (no malo). Fresh and pretty, with bright and tangy flavors of strawberry and rhubarb, it has a spicy back kick that really pumps up the finish.
Syncline 2007 Celilo Vineyard Pinot Noir ($28) – For me, the most interesting wine of a fascinating flight, because old vine pinot noir is not something generally found in Washington. These vines were planted in 1972, and produce a delicate pinot noir, high in acid, pretty and relatively pale in the glass, with scents of tart cranberry, mineral and pomegranate. It is much like the pinots of Germany, or the Canadian Okanagan, rather than anything I’ve tasted from Oregon, California or New Zealand.
Syncline 2007 Coyote Canyon Vineyard Mourvedre ($30) – A 100% varietal mourvedre from the Horse Heaven Hills; it’s a sharp, edgy wine. It shows a different fruit profile than other reds, highlighting plum, with lots of spice; it’s soft and round, and the tannins are subtle but peppery.
Syncline 2007 Syrah ($24) – Almost every winemaker I talk to these days has a sad face when the subject of syrah sales is raised, but a wine this good should have no trouble finding buyers. From Destiny Ridge, Milbrandt and Coyote Canyon (65% HHH/35% Wahluke), it has simply wonderful aromatics, with carpaccio, olive, violets and more. There is great concentration here, both in the nose and in the mouth. Tannins are ripe and polished, underlying glorious purple fruits, a panoply of berries and plums. Still very young, but perfect texture and balance, with a little white chocolate in the finish.
Triage distributes Syncline in western Washington. See the sidebar link for ordering info from the winery.
Paul Gregutt is the author of "Northwest Wines."
His column appears weekly in the Wine section.
He can be reached by e-mail at wine@seattletimes.com.